Хакасы - качинцы. Усть-Абаканский район, колхоз им. Молотова
A hundred years ago the Khakases sewed their own clothes.
Khakas clothes were original. They sewed it themselves from the skins of domestic animals and from the material of factory production. Winter outerwear was a fur coat, adapted to the harsh climatic conditions of Siberia and horse riding.
Demi-season - from a self-conscious mother.
Summer outerwear was sewn from cloth.
Festive clothing must have been decorated with bright floral ornaments.
The cut of children's clothes did not differ from the clothes of adults.
The main type of underwear was used for men's shirt (ir kogen), and for women - a dress (ipchi kogener). Usually they were sewed from cotton fabrics (festive - from silk). The man's shirt with its cut resembled a woman's dress, but was much shorter and without wedges in the middle of the back. She was cut with a slit on her chest and a turndown collar, fastened to one button. The front and back gates were folded, making the shirt very wide in the hem. The voluminous sleeves ended in narrow cuffs. Shoulders (poliki), cuffs and hem of women's dresses were made from a different fabric.
Men's shirt is kogenek. Fig. D.P. Cherepanov, 1947
Borrowed from Russian peasants shirt with coquette and frills and kosovorotka were distributed.
A lot of popular views were associated with the characteristics of clothing. So, on the seams of the sleeves under the armpits and over the cuffs were left strips, called hut syynchans - the place of attraction of the soul (man). It should be noted also the special attitude of the Khakass to the buttons (march) and the collar (modyrykh), considered to be the guardians of the human soul. When selling clothes, it was supposed to turn off the buttons, otherwise happiness will go away with them.
The waistcoats of the Khakas consisted of the lower (ystan) and the upper pants (changram). These names were known to some other Turkic peoples. Everyday men's pants were made of dark cotton fabric, and festive - from the slab. Female pantaloons of the sub are usually sewn from the blue duba (kind of fabric).
Winter pants were made of sheepskin, wool inside.
Kachinka Anna Okuneva. 19 years . 1915. photo by N.V. Fedorova
Women's dress kogenek. Khakasy-beltyry. Askiz district. Ulus the Small Monok. Fig. D.P. Cherepanov, 1947
Women in day dresses in 1912 photo N.V. Fedorov
Corner of embroidered collar. Women's dress kogenek
A woman's shirt, as well as a man's, on her chest and back was going into small creases and was long - to the floor. Collar - turn-down, with long ends, fastened on one button. They wore a shirt made of colored fabric and silk. Shoulders and cuffs, embroidered with silk threads, were sewn with assemblies. Fashion women made them from brocade and silk with a pattern.
Married women over a festive costume (coats and coats of direct cut) necessarily put on a unique sleeveless jacket - segedek. Girls and widows had no right to wear such an outfit.
Segedec. The Kachin people. Ust-Abakan district, ulus Troyakov. Fig. D.P. Cherepanov, 1947
Segedek - a sleeveless jacket.
Beltyry. Askiz district, ulus Matkeczyk.
Fig. D.P. Cherepanova, 1947
Bays liked to wear bathrobes. The male robe (chimcha), like any other men's outerwear, was necessarily girded with sash khur, the ends of which were tied and hanging in front. On the left side of the sash was attached a knife in wooden, ornamented with tin sheath, and behind it hung a silver flint on the chain.
Tubes (hanza), along with the muslin, were worn by men in their pockets, and women by the boot top.
The upper clothing of the Khakassians was a sikkpen - a long caftan opening in the front.
Sikpeng is the top summer women's clothing. He wore a coarse cloth on a cotton lining.
Both male and female sikpens were embroidered on the collar, cuffs and back. Side by side they were sometimes decorated with embroidered pockets. In the first decades of the XX century, the sikpep became exclusively women's clothing. Men also began to wear ayami and taars, which they put on top of the kyogene and pants as light shoulder clothes.
Girls - Khakasks in cloth gowns. Ulus. Tazmin. 1912. photo by N.V. Fedorov
On festive days young women wore a ruffled caftan - a sikpen or a haptal made of thin black cloth. The collar was covered with red silk or brocade. Cuffs sleeves were sewn from black velvet or plait and were decorated with silk patterns. Cuffs were usually made with a chamfered protrusion in the shape of a horse's hoof. This form is called ohms. It was believed that the beveled cuffs are convenient for decent behavior: bashful girls covered their face with the persistent glances of the guys.
Summer women's clothes were made of cloth or plaque, lined. Collar turn-down, shawl, mainly from the material of red or brown with an ornament from pearl buttons. Cuffs sleeves and back were embroidered with patterns of colored thread. Such embroidered clothes were considered festive. It was worn by mostly well-off women. For everyday wear, the sippen was made easier and sewed out of cheap material.
Sikpen. Southern Khakass. Tashtyp region, Ulus Upper Syry. Fig. D.P. Cherepanov, 1947
Sikpen. Southern Khakass. Tashtypsky district, ulusHarasug. Fig. D.P. Cherepanov, 1947
Sikpen. Khakasy-belts. Askiz district, ulus Matkeczyk. Fig. D.P. Cherepanova, 1947
A group of Sagais from the Yesi River in winter dresses. 1894 photo P.E. Ostrovsky
Winter clothes Khakass, both male and female, was a fur coat - the tone. Closely fitting from above and wide from below at the expense of the inserted wedges the fur coat was decorated with embroidery. Simple coats were sewn from sheepskin or goat fur. Rich - from lambskin, squirrel or fox fur. The everyday tone had 3 ~ 5 wedges and was shorter; Rich, festive counted 7 wedges.
Probably, in the earlier times the fur coat served as clothing for all seasons. Many poor people went to fur coats in the summer; In the heat of the hands removed from the sleeves, and the fur coat fell from the shoulders, completely exposing the torso; While she firmly kept on the sash. This fashion was known to all the peoples of Southern Siberia.
Fur coat (tone) of sheepskin. Khakasy-belts. Askiz district, ulus Small Monok
Sheepskin coat. Khakassy-Kachin people. Ust-Abakan district, ulus Troyakov. Fig. D.P. Cherepanov, 1947
The man's fur coat (tone) from a sheepskin was long, with a wide hem. The front hem was shorter than the back. The fur coat was furrowed to the waist, with narrow wedges on the back, widened to the hem. The sleeves were stitched with a deep armhole, to its ends sewn the fur edge, covering the hands. The collar was made round, turn-down, of fur, usually of sheepskin, and well-off - from lambskin or otter.
White coat - ah tone. Khakasy-beltyry, Askizsky district, ulus Small Monok
White coat - ah tone. Tashtyp region, Ulus Upper Syry. Southern Khakassians are Sagays, belts.
The hem and the left half of the fur coat were covered with a strip of fur. The fur coat flapped to the right and girded. Khakases also wore a short coat (a tone was given), and many were accustomed to a fur coat sewn along Russian peasant cut.
Black velvet coat (hara plish tone). Khakasy-belts. Askiz district, ulus the Lesser Monok. Fig. D.P. Cherepanova, 1947.
Men's fur coat hara plis tone. Khakasy-belts. Askiz district, ulus Matketchik. Fig. D.P. Cherepanova, 1947
Women's clothing had some features. The fur coat was sewn from the sheepskin, lambskin or other fur, and trimmed with sable fur, squirrels and cloth. The back of the festive fur coat was decorated with brushes, patterns, embroidered with silk threads.
Much work of imagination of different generations was spent in search of spectacular forms of women's outfits. The people's taste was satisfied, in particular, with the front view of the coat of a penny, covered with black slab. Her floors were lined with fur coats of hum, composed of front legs of squirrels and sables sewn in two rows. On one edge, up to 300 paws of animals. On the outer edge of the hum was dazzled with a black lambskin. This rim - chylbih - is inherent only for women's clothing. Above the fur edge a wide rim of silk or brocade was sewn. The sleeves were made of fur from the otters. The back of the penny was decorated with embroidery.
A group of Kachin people. Ulus Tutatchikovy on the Uybat river in 1912 photo N.V. Fedorov
A penny-tone. Southern Khakassians are Sagays, belts. Tashtyp region, Ulus Upper Syry. Fig. D.P. Cherepanov, 1947
Special cut was a women's ritual coat (idktig tone), which was worn at the wedding. It had a straight cut with a deep armhole armhole. At the height of the knees, it was collected from the sides and back to the assembly.
Ideikt tone - fur coat with interception, trimmed with fur. Fig. D.P. Cherepanov, 1947
The hem at the level of the knees, from the sides and behind was quilted by nine, eleven or thirteen rows of thread. The assemblies were obtained. The lower part of the fur coat, covered with folds, formed a semblance of a skirt. Walking in a wedding coat was uncomfortable, since the step was restrained by the interception of the hem, but it kept the heat well.
The left floor with a quadrangular ledge was deeply wrapped right. The collar, standing or turn-down, was made of fur. On the cuffs was a semicircular edge, descending on the hands. The rich covered this coat with expensive colored and patterned silk fabrics. The hem, cuffs, left floor, collar fur lined with sable or squirrels. From the right side to the coat as an ornament hung a patterned pocket. Over the wedding fur coat they put on a short sleeveless jacket (sighedek) on a lining embroidered with silk threads.
The ideal tone was with the Szegedek, the tulu piurik and the pogo special wedding dress. The first time a woman dressed up for him at her wedding, and later, still a young woman, she was in this costume at other weddings as an honored guest.
Headpiece from color brocade and female festive costume: a fur coat from colored silk, trimmed with fur
The birth cap. Kachintsy Ust-Abakan district. Fig. D.P. Cherepanova, 1947
Tulgu - piurik - a special headgear of the matchmaker from the fur of a black fox. According to Khakass folklore, it was preserved from Kyrgyz times. The high fields of the cap-the pike-barrel-were made in the form of a kokoshnik with a slit behind them, and strips of fox or otter fur were sewn on their front part. The cap of the tulgu was worn over the kerchief. The round crown was covered with silk and brocade and was decorated with a brush.
The decoration of the women's wedding attire was a breastplate (poo), it was worn on the chest over the fur coat and sigedeka. It was made from a piece of tanned leather of semi-oval form and decorated symmetrically with sewn pearl buttons, corals, beads and other materials. The edges were lined with fringe from beads. Pogo symbolized the happiness and well-being of the family.
Khakass women now wear it not only for the wedding, but for any holiday.
The usual headdress for women was a round hat with a band and a handkerchief. In fashion, there was a scarf with a color pattern. Wore it, tying a knot on the back of the head. In winter, along with a hat, they wore a shawl or other scarf, like Russian peasants. The maiden hat (taahah), which was considered festive, was preserved. She was made from the tails of an otter and was pounded with a lambskin. She had a tall, protruding band, in which a cut for her face was made. The brocade was decorated with mother-of-pearl buttons and a silk brush.
Women covered their heads with a handkerchief, folding it diagonally in half and tying the ends on the back of their heads. It was considered important to bend the handkerchief so that a forehead (kuree) formed like a forehead. The scarf was scarce on widows and deceased.
Married and elderly women flaunted in festive hats - champi in winter. Above the round band from the otter's fur or the beaver rose a plaque or velvet trumpet, made of four long wedges. Four of its sides and a square top were decorated with colorful patterns, and on the poppy-tree a red tassel was strengthened. Girls were forbidden to wear this hat.
An original headdress was a cap, trimmed with a sable or a black-brown fox.
The woman's hairdress was peculiar. Married women wore two braids (tulun), and girls - pigtails (sarmes). Women's jewelry was earrings, bracelets, rings and rings. The girls hung pendant jewelry made of beads, coins and brushes to braids, wore beads.
The most common musical instrument of Khakass is called chatan. It is a long hollow box with ends curved in the shape of mutton horns. On the upper side, 7 or 9 strings of wire or lamb intestines are stretched. According to legends, in ancient times the magic chatan was owned by seven eyeless giants (sygyr), it was stolen from them by a smart boy - so the chatan got to the Khakass people.
